The Spiritual Cleansing of the Jaintia Hills
In the misty highlands of Meghalaya, the Behdienkhlam Festival stands as the most vital cultural and religious event for the Pnar (Jaintia) people. Much like the Bera Utsav of Bengal, this "Festival of Chasing Away the Plague" is a profound blend of ancient mythology, agrarian hope, and vibrant community celebration, serving as a testament to the resilient spirit of the Northeast.
The History and Origins
The roots of Behdienkhlam are deeply embedded in Niamtre, the indigenous religion of the Jaintia people. The festival's name is derived from the Pnar words ‘Beh’ (to drive away), ‘Dien’ (wood/sticks), and ‘Khlam’ (plague/cholera).
According to local folklore, the town of Jowai was once a vast forest inhabited by five deities. These deities prayed for humans to settle in the region, and when a wandering tribe arrived, the eldest deity, U-Mokhai, performed a ceremonial dance in celebration. Today, the festival continues this legacy, serving as a ritualistic prayer to the gods to protect the community from epidemics and natural calamities.
When is it Celebrated?
Behdienkhlam is a monsoon festival, traditionally observed in mid-July after the sowing season is complete. The timing is symbolic: as the rains wash over the hills, the community seeks a "spiritual wash" to ensure the newly sown crops are protected and that the coming year brings health and prosperity.
The Grand Celebration at Jowai
While the festival is celebrated throughout the Jaintia Hills, the most magnificent display occurs in the town of Jowai. The celebration spans four days and is marked by several unique stages:
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The Driving Away of Evil: Young men visit every house in the village, using bamboo poles to symbolically beat the roofs. This ritual is intended to "drive out" evil spirits, diseases, and misfortune from the hearth and home.
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The Procession of Rots: The centerpiece of the festival is the parade of Rots—towering, 30-to-40-foot structures made of bamboo, colored paper, and tinsel. These are similar to the decorative rafts of the Bera Utsav but are carried on the shoulders of men. Modern Rots often depict social themes like environmental protection or global unity.
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The Sacred Dip at Aitnar: The climax occurs at Aitnar, a sacred muddy pool. Thousands gather to witness the immersion of the Rots and the "Khnong" (a sacred timber beam). In a scene of high energy, hundreds of men dance in the mud to the rhythm of pipes and drums, symbolizing a collective triumph over evil.
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Dat-Lawakor (Traditional Football): The festival concludes with a unique game similar to football, played with a wooden ball. It is believed that the side that wins the match will be blessed with a more bountiful harvest.
Cultural Significance
Behdienkhlam is a celebration of man’s relationship with nature. While the men lead the public dances and rituals, the women play a crucial role behind the scenes, offering sacrificial food (Knia) to the spirits of their ancestors. It is a time when social barriers dissolve, and the entire community unites to reinforce their identity and faith.
In a world that is rapidly modernizing, Behdienkhlam remains a "living museum" of Jaintia heritage, blending the ancient fear of the "plague" with a modern celebration of life and togetherness.